I have a 1-1/4″ OD X 4″ CLR die set. Can I buy a 4-1/2″ CLR form die and use the backing blocks from the 4″ set? No. Each radius die set is a matched three-piece set. The hole locations are different, and the hole numbers may be different, between sets. Parts are not interchangeable, although parts from different sets may occasionally fit together. We recommend you wire the sets together or paint them the same color to avoid mixing them up. If they do get mixed up, call us for technical support, and we’ll try to help you get them straightened out.
I purchased an OD Tube die set. When I fit my tube into the die to start a bend, it doesn’t seem to fit. Why? Your die is working properly. The die openings are designed to be slightly smaller than the stock. The stock will be forced into the dies when pressure is applied and will grip the stock securely (this is known as pinch).
I purchased a Pipe die set. When I put all three pieces in the bender I can’t get the pipe to go in the die. Why? Good question. The dies are made to fit tightly. What you need to do is remove your draw block and be sure it’s greased. Then place your pipe between the horn or straight side of the form die and the back block. A slight clockwise twist will lock your pipe into place in the back block. Then insert your greased draw block into the proper position, and the pin should drop in easily. You should be ready to bend. The pins should be able to be pushed in their proper holes easily. The pins or the pipe should not have to be hammered in place. When bending pipe sometimes you get foreign pipe, which for some reason is larger in size than American, and the dies don’t fit. In this case, we need to get the die back here with a sample of your pipe, and we can usually make things work. In severe cases we will have to re-work the whole die set.
I just put my 50B Outbend Angle Iron Master Die in the bender, but it doesn’t move. What’s wrong? You’ve probably put the 19B U-Pin thru the main frame, swinging frame, and 50B Master Die together. You need to mount the Master Die with the 53B Wrist Pin in-between the swinging frame bars only. Mount the 50B at the second 3/4″ hole in the swinging frame by slipping the 53B Wrist Pin through the bottom. Once installed, the 53B Pin will be held in place by the main frame bars. See pages 18 & 19 in the Instruction Manual for more instructions and a diagram. This will allow the 50B to move.
I want to make a 90º bend. What radius size do I need? 90º is the degree to which you want to bend your stock — a right angle. We also need to know the radius of the bend. Bending to a small radius will use less stock. Bending to a large radius will use more stock. When we ask about the radius of the bend, we need to know how large you want to make that 90º bend. For example, 180º 1″ OD Tube Dies come in 2-1/4″ thru 8″ center line radius (measured from the center of the circle to the center of the stock). To bend more than 180º, Feed-Along 1″ OD Tube Dies are available for radii above 8″. They’ll all bend you stock to 90º but, depending on the radius, will bend a smaller or larger arc. The wall thickness of the stock will also determine the radius you can bend.
I have a 2″ OD X 6″ CLR die set. I dropped my draw block, and it broke. Can I get a replacement block? Replacement parts are available for any die set. Just tell us the size and radius of your die set. Call us for availability and cost.
I want to bend 1-1/4″ Pipe to a 50″ radius. I see you don’t have a 50″ radius die set. Is it possible to do this? Yes, you can bend larger radii on all of our feed-along dies — don’t pull the swing frame all the way forward until it meets the form die. For example, to bend a 50″ radius, buy the 36″ radius die. Use a template for a 50″ radius: another piece of pipe bent to the same radius, etc. Position it over the form die, and set the circle stop gauge on the bender main frame circle to stop the swing arm at that point. When you pull just to the stop, you will have a 50″ radius. Pick a radius form die close in size to the one you want to bend. For example, don’t use a 7-1/2″ die to bend a 200″ radius — it would be too hard to control how much to move the pipe through the die in order not to have flat spots in your radius. Also, it’s only possible to do this with the feed-along method of bending.
My back block has a number stamped on it. My draw block has TOP and a number stamped on it. What does this mean? Those numbers are the holes the pins go in to install your die in the bender. For example, in a 1-1/4″ OD X 4-1/2″ CLR die set the blocks are stamped 5 and TOP 5. The back block goes in the 5th hole of the bender main frame. There is also a 1/4″ elevation pin in the bottom of the block. This rests on the main frame bottom bar and is there to help line up the grooves. The draw block has TOP 5 stamped on it. Put the die in with TOP facing upwards; if you put it in upside down, it won’t work correctly. The draw block also goes in the 5th hole of the swing frame with the 1/4″ elevation pin resting on the bottom bar. Remember, when installing dies in the bender only count the 3/4″ or 5/8″ holes depending on which bender you have, the No. 1 or No. 2
I recently purchased a bender from one of your competitors. They said their bender uses “Hossfeld” dies. I broke the draw block I bought from you for use with this other bender. Will you stand behind it? HOSSFELD UNIVERSAL(R) dies are designed to be used only with Hossfeld authorized equipment. The only equipment authorized for this is HOSSFELD UNIVERSAL(R) bending equipment. Our policy states: “HOSSFELD UNIVERSAL(R) parts and dies are designed to be used with HOSSFELD UNIVERSAL(R) Benders. Use of other benders with HOSSFELD UNIVERSAL(R) parts and dies may cause inferior performance or lead to breakage of such parts or dies.” You will get the best performance from our dies with genuine Hossfeld equipment.
The back block in 1-1/2″ OD X 6″ CLR tube die set has no pin hole for the U-Pin to go thru, but it has a bolt and washer. Why? In our larger size die sets, there’s a lack of space to fit a pin hole in the back block. We use what’s known as a “bolt-on back block”. This back block bolts to the 12B Oscillating Block, which comes factory installed with your bender. The 12B Oscillating Block has a flat side with a horizontal hole. Place your back block against the flat side with the TOP stamp facing up, and slide the bolt through the horizontal hole, then finger tighten the bolt. Insert your tube between the form die and back block, and tighten the bolt with a wrench. Grease your draw block, drop it in place, and you should be ready to bend.
How can I tell where my bend starts on my 180º die set? Along the horn, or straight side, of the form die there should be a small mark either raised or stamped. This is your point-of-bend mark or where the bend starts.